Arlene and I have been blessed to have had many ‘once in a lifetime’ experiences. But aside from Marriage, Baptism and Confirmation, Birth of Children and Grandchildren, being in St. Peter’s Square to see white smoke, witness the revealing of a new Pope and receiving a Papal blessing from Pope Leo XIV definitely tops the list.
Our journey to be in Rome on the day the Pope was elected dates back two years on a Pilgrimage to Medjugorje. On our way out of Medjugorje at 2:30 in the morning I heard a voice telling me I wasn’t supposed to leave. The voice insisted I get out of the van immediately, before the next roundabout. I said I had a flight to catch. The voice was persistent. I finally said, ‘if I promise to return, can I go now?’ The voice accepted my offer.
So last year we began to plan a return pilgrimage to Medjugorje and added an overlapping pilgrimage to Italy beginning May 14. This year is a Jubilee year and pilgrims walk through the holy doors of the four major basilicas in Rome. Unfortunately, the Italy portion got cancelled in early February, and 206 Tours (who I cannot recommend enough) helped us with a similar itinerary beginning early May. So in mid-February we had our flights and rooms booked for early May. Of course, at that time we had no idea what was in store for us.
When Pope Francis died on Easter Monday, we started searching information on the Conclave. Our excitement rose when we discovered the Conclave would start May 7, as the only two days the Pilgrimage was scheduled in Rome were May 7 and 8. We discovered there would be one vote Wednesday afternoon. On subsequent days, a maximum of two votes in morning and two in the afternoon. If both were negative, either morning or afternoon, you would only see black smoke once. If they elected a Pope, you would see white smoke after the vote.
We left Sunday May 4 to arrive in Rome a day before the Pilgrimage was to start. When we arrived Monday, we entered the Holy Door of St. Peter’s and attended 5 pm Mass behind the main altar. Tuesday morning, we were able to visit the other three Basilica’s in Rome and complete the passing through the four Holy Doors. Since this was to be part of the Pilgrimage, we were comfortable abandoning the Pilgrimage on Wednesday and Thursday.
Wednesday afternoon we walked 0.8 miles to the Vatican and arrived around 2 to begin waiting. In order to get into St. Peter’s Square you had to go through a metal detector. On Wednesday, there was an extra level of security a half block from the square and they made a quick check of your backpack. Security was very visible.
When we arrived Wednesday, there was a small crowd, but it continued to build throughout the day. We were able to watch on the outdoor screens as the Cardinals made their way into the Sistine Chapel. One that struck me happened watching the Cardinals enter the Sistine Chapel while praying the litany of saints. We also got to watch each cardinal place his hand on the gospel and take the oath. It helped me to understand how solemn and spiritual this moment is, how much they were asking for the Holy Spirit and the Saints to guide them their decision in choosing the next leader of the Catholic church.
The screens stayed on while the Cardinals took their oath. Then at 5:45, we watched the doors of the Sistine Chapel close and the video feed was turned off. We waited. We didn’t feel the need to get close, so we sat on the steps by the Bernini colonnade. As the sun set the 70F temp dropped a little and it became cool. We had already missed our dinner with the group and kept debating how long to stay, since it was a good bet we would see black smoke. At around 8:45, you couldn’t easily see the smokestack with the naked eye. The camera picture trained on the stack had to adjust of the increasing darkness. We decided to exit the square and walked down the street outside the Vatican to the first tv screen to wait for the black smoke, which eventually came at 9:00 pm. Our 7 hours of waiting Wednesday were done.
Thursday morning we again advised our tour guide that we were going to the Vatican again and wait, hopefully seeing them at dinner. We arrived around 9:15 and settled into the area directly in front of St. Peter’s. The crowd grew during the morning, but when the black smoke appeared again around 11:50, there was a moan in the crowd and a good portion of the crowd dispersed.
But we were committed to staying. Our pilgrimage was leaving Rome Friday morning, so the afternoon votes would be our last chance. But security made us clear out of the area closest to the Basilica. So we sat again on the steps near the Bernini columns where we had spent most of Wednesday. We did bring a small snack so we didn’t have to leave the square.
Close to 1 pm we decided to get in line and wait to get into the first barricaded area in front. We stood for 2 hours until they let us back in the area at 3 pm. It was sunny and 70F, but in the shade it was cool, so it was good weather for waiting. Actually, we got more use of our umbrella for shade than for rain!
Once we got into the barricaded area, for the next 3 hours we sat or stood, waiting. The waiting was an experience itself. The crowd was orderly and patient. Flags from different counties were draped over the barricades. A group of Nuns were praying the Rosary in Italian. Occasionally, a group would shout “we want a Pope” – in Italian of course. I have never looked at a smokestack for that long in my life.
Around 5 pm the all the screens switched to the view of the smokestack. Once in a while a seagull would appear on near the stack. The crowd laughed and cheered a little when two seagulls, then a baby appeared around the stack. Around 2 minutes later, the white smoke appeared at 6:07pm.
A loud cheer went up from the crowd. We began crying. The bells of St. Peter started ringing. The joy at seeing the smoke is one I will never forget. The cheering was unique, different from any cheering at a sporting event. Something we dreamed we might see became a reality.
We knew the new Pope would come out in about an hour. But we didn’t know what else to expect. 23 minutes after the smoke began to appear, a band marched out followed by the Swiss guards. You realized they were on standby since late Wednesday afternoon.
Our text messages to friends were delayed in getting sent, not surprisingly the phone system was overloaded, but before the Pope came out, we received a text from a friend in the US telling us the Pope is from America! We were thrilled that we would get to see the new Pope, but even more surprised that he is the first American Pope.
The entire experience was amazing and something we will never forget.
-Ed and Arlene Borkowski
